This can in theory work with a few models of toyota amps around. If anyone wants to see if it's possible then I'm more then happy to give it a look at for you. Nothing like a comprehensive howto. :yahoo:
• Socket Set – (8 , 10, 12mm) • Spanner (8mm)
• Soldering Iron + Solder • Steel Drill Bit (8mm)
• Mini-Shifter • Hard Red / Black / White wires
• Phillips Screw Driver • Long Nose Pliers
• Pencil • Wire Tape
Well lucky for me it was the same!!
1. Unplug battery terminals… Positive first – wait for beeping to stop, then Negative. (I think that will discharge the rest of the loom)
2. Remove your glovebox by unclipping the 2 clips at the bottom which allow it to swing open/close with the long nose pliers.
3. When you look in to the left of the glovebox hole there is a nut which holds the amp, remove that.
4. Below to the far left corner of the footwell there is a plastic nut, unscrew that by hand and remove it.
5. Remove the cover for the fusebox by popping the little clip open then swinging it off.
6. Now to remove the sealing for the door sills to the carpet, you can do this by pulling it up then sliding it out as one piece with the front left footwell covering.
7. Now that your amp is removed, time to disassemble it, undo the following screws from the heatsink.
8. Now remove the heatsink which should reveal the paste.
9. The top of the unit should unclip, I used a flathead to lever it off on all ends till it could slide off.
10. And Voila, you have a genuine replica of the is300 amp! (giggidy giggidy)
Time to remove the mainboard, there are 4 obvious screws holding down the board, remove them
11. The area of interest is the right side of this board (as circled below).
12. Now it’s time to insert some Pre-Outs (one red strip, one black strip), you’ll need to mark the holes where you want to drill.
In my case I did it here: (sorry no before pics)
13. You will need to mark the elevation of the board inside and any bits that are nearby so you don’t hit them when inserting your RCA socket, grab your drill with your 8mm bit and start drilling.
14. Once that is done (in my case the right side of the plugs) you should shave some of the white plastic off so they can sit right next to each other on both sides of the RCA socket.
15. Insert your RCA sockets and have the white plastic , nut (2) & earth clips (1) ready on the inside of the case then start screwing it in from the outside with the mini-shifter, due to the little amount of room on the inside the screwing can only be done from the outside to ensure you can it fitted tightly in there (see contact on point 2 below).
16. Once that is done bend the earth clips inwards (pictured below) and make sure they are very close/contacting each other (the signal earth is common for left/right channels)
17. Test that your board can fit back in and isn’t touching anything. Unfortunately you will have to sacrifice being able to screw that one bolt back in to hold the board down (don’t worry, we have 3 left).
18. Once your mainboard is in it is time to solder! (you gotta have a steady hand for this cause they’re pretty close to each other)
White Wire (left) goes into Point 1 (in my case red/blue stripe)
Red Wire (right) goes into Point 2
Black Wire (earth) goes into Point 3
I suggest having the wire approach from the right side and because it’s a ‘hard’ wire its bendable into a shape that doesn’t contact anything.
19. Stick some wire tape over the soldered bits just to be sure it doesn’t contact the case upon closing.
20. Time for the other end of these wires:
Solder Point 1 (left channel) into the pointy end of the RCA socket.
Solder Point 2 (right channel) into the pointy end of the other RCA socket
Solder Point 3 onto both earth clips on the RCA socket ensuring it is contacting BOTH of them.
I also bent the wires around the clip so its right out of the way of anything, plus being hard wire it *should* stay like that.
21. Before reassembly you need to get the cover of the amp case and bend the clip right where the RCA sockets are inwards, unfortunately there was no room for it to clip back.
22. Now reattach the cover back on and reverse from steps 8 --> 1. Now your done and ready to start pumping out a even more premium sound system. Enjoy.
Please Note - I will take more picks of the leadup to the install and some bits in-between as I know this is a incomplete set of instructions.
For those wondering why I put the RCA's in that location, it was because I attempted the RCA-In modification but came across some problems, maybe I'll look into it again it in the near future.