Hi all carried out water pump, cambelt all idlers and tensioner, cam cover seals and crank seal.
Please excuse the pictures, taken with my iPhone 4 with dirty hands and tbh I just wanted to get the job done but anyway after having tracked down a UK converted 3sge manual i got to work...
Produced as an insight for tezzaworld members only.
Admin feel free to sticky should you wish...
Ok, first off I was impressed by the air cooled ECU box via the dual rad fans, anyway disconnect cooling air hose to ECU box, remove engine undertray, and open the white drain tape to empty cooling system. for E shift owners clamp off oil cooling lines and diconnect, also unplug fans and fan switch, remove rad, two 10mm's...
Now remove engine design cover, 5mm allen key socket...
Now both aux belts need to be removed in order to remove the lower cambelt covers, first start with the right side aux belt that runs PS pump and air con compressor, in order to remove loosen off the tensioner pulley centre nut 12mm and feel to the side of the tensioner assembly there is another 12mm loosen this then slide the pulley back to free tension of belt, remove belt. For alternator v belt loosen of the lower 14mm hinge bolt and the two 12mm bolts and swing the alternator to the right, remove belt...
Remove upper cambelt cover 10mm's. Next harmonic damper needs to come off, use a puller and insert the M8 threaded bolts in to the damper and crack the 19mm damper centre bolt off and start using the tool to pull the damper off.
Now slide the damper off and undo the lower cambelt cover to fully expose the cambelt.
Next open ECU box x3 10mm's and remove all electrical connectors please note now is a good time for me to mention disconnectin the ground terminal of your battery before going any further.
I also wanted to replace the cam cover and spark hole gaskets, if your doing just cambelt and water pump this is not vital as the cams can still be moved from the centre bolt but you can also hold the cams via a 24mm on the service lobe again this is not essential and you can do cambelt without taking cam cover off, but for those like me that want to remove it to replace the gasket seals its just a case of disconnecting coil packs x10mm's and unplugging injectors and moving the wiring to one side then there are several 10mms to remove that hold the cam cover on, change seals and re fit tightening the cover evenly...
Next remove the PS pump reservoir 3x10mm's remove oil lines from it to pump.
Remove pump 3x14mm bolts going through the pulley to hold it on its bracket, remove these and remove pump.
Next remove the PS bracket 4x 14mm.
Begin removing the v belt tensioner assembley, 3x12mm's
Now thats out the way air con compressor and bracket need to come out, there are 12mm bolts holding the compressor on and 4x 14mm bolts holding the bracket to the block, remove these and hang the compressor to one side, this will allow removal of the water pump.
Now move engine loom to one side to begin removing the cambelt.
Ok, first up use a 19mm socket to set the crankshaft to TDC so piston 1 is at its highest point, there is a mark on the oil pump case and a dot on the crank pulley trigger wheel, once you have this at TDC you can then remove the cambelt, to do so the tensioner needs to come off, crack the 12mm pivot but off then pivot the tensioner so the piston part goes in and use a 3mm drill bit to keep it closed or like me just loosen the two 12mm bolts holding the piston bracket on and slide the tensioner off.
Old belt on the floor
Now with the belt off you can start changing the idler pulleys one has a 12mm centre bolt holding it to the block and the other idler has two 12mm's bolts going into a bracket holding it on, change these and begin waterpump remove, you need to remove the thermostat housing and then the unbolting procedure can be begin.
Waterpump now removed
I also wanted to replace my crank shaft oil seal, use a gear puller to remove the trigger wheel puller then remove seal and use a suitable drift to insert a new seal, here the new seal is seated.
Install new belt and tensioner and begin timing and tensioning the belt, ensure there is no slack down the right side of the belt going from exhaust cam to water pump to idler one and to trigger wheel/crank pulley.
Once happy remove holding pin from new tensioner to automatically tension belt.
New belt installed and ready to go.
Begin the refit.
There you have it, my 3sge with new cambelt and water pump, all parts were cleaned when re installing everything, enure the cooling system is bleed properly, fill PAS up and lock to lock with engine off 20 timesto insure no air.
Please note this is a rough guide produced to give others a rough idea of the process...