So, call me crazy, but I decided that the 2JZ just wasn't me. I have a deep love for high revving 4 cylinders, seeing as I came from a Honda and Subaru background. One of my favorite cars I have ever built was my 95 Civic sedan with a legit USDM ITR/B18C5 swap.
So, that being said, it is obvious that a 3SGE BEAMS swap was in my near future! I will be writing a engine swap guide after I complete the swap.
Here is a quick rundown of the 5th gen BEAMS engine, taken from the Beams Owners Group
[quote=http://www.beams-redtop.com/blackhome.htm]In 1998, a second version of the Beams 3S-GE engine series was release known as the Beams Blacktop upgraded with dual VVT-I, titanium valves, battery packed injectors and a slightly higher compression ratio. This engine powered the Altezza RS200 only available in Japan.
After talking with the guys that sourced my TRD kit, this showed up a week later
According the the stickers on the ECU cover, the engine had it's last service at 96,000km. And after seeing how clean the oil was after draining it, I'm guessing it has 65k-70k miles. Even with this low of miles, I decided to source a OEM gasket kit and rebuild it. Here it is after removing most of the accessories.
Next up was removing the oil pan. This consists of two steps. First you have to remove the steel lower pan to gain access to the bolts hidden within. Next, remove all the bolts from the aluminum upper pan. I used a pry bar in the cutouts at the back of the pan to break the seal. This is after all the accessories were removed as well. Check out how clean the crank is!
The trend of clean internals continued the farther I tore in to it. I ordered a factory service manual from a place out in NZ to assist with my tear down. Unfortunately it was VERY incomplete. It did, however, help me get the head off. The top of this thing was super clean, without even a trace of sludge. The chambers did not look bad either for an engine with this many miles.
Next up was to decide if I should rebuild both the block and head, or just the head. Upon closer examination I determined I would just rebuild the head. Check out that factory crosshatch on the cylinder walls. I doubt this thing will give me trouble/burn oil any time soon. By the way, that is a weird reflection, not rust on the cylinder wall.
I took the head home to start the disassembly and cleaning process. Here it is, stripped bare, sitting on my work bench. Yes I know my work bench is messy :p
As stated earlier, the 3SGE uses titanium valves. For those that don't know, Ti is VERY VERY picky about what you can and can't clean it with. No brake cleaner, nothing that is chlorinated and very few solvents are acceptable. While all of these solvents will get the valves clean, they change the Ti at a microscopic level, and over time, will cause valve failure. Same goes for my conventional method of using a soft wire wheel. After more research I found that the motorcycle guys were having very good luck with ultrasonic cleaners. Fortunately we have a Harbor Freight right down the street. $85 later I had myself the best ultrasonic cleaner they sold. The solvent of choice you ask? A 50/50 mixture of Original Pine Sol to water! I was very skeptical of this, but I figured I would give it a try. It took about 20 minutes per valve, but look at the results!! The first picture is of an intake valve with only 5 minutes in the ultrasonic bath.
Next up was to clean the rest of the cylinder head and parts. I use 100% Purple Power Cleaner whenever I am cleaning aluminum. It have noticed it works much better than Simple Green on oil, sludgy oil and carbon deposits. I used many new razor blades as well a fine ScotchBrite to clean the head gasket mating surface. Some say you need to resurface the head every time, I have been doing it this way for year and never had an issue.
Now that everything was factory fresh, I installed a new set of OEM valve seals. Pro tip: I use a small amount of moly grease on the inside of the seal, then press them down with my finger until they stop. I have not had luck with the socket trick in the past. Next, I lubed up the valve stems with a thin coat of grease, then slid them in. I also used assembly lube on the contact surfaces of the spring seats, springs and retainers. Using my home made valve spring compressor (big ass c-clamp with a tube that I cut a window out of) and grease to hold the keepers in place, I installed all of the valves. I made sure to not mix up ANY of the parts. If it came out of the first exhaust valve on cylinder three, that is where it went back. Since I did not do any type of valve job, this was mandatory for the valves themselves. I am a bit anal when it comes to this kind of stuff, so even the springs and retainers when back in to their respective homes.
For the cam caps, bolts, buckets and shims, I dropped them in the ultrasonic with a 10% Purple Power solution for less than 1 minute. I took extra caution with the buckets and shims to make sure they did not get mixed up. And here it is, all ready to be bolted back on the block! I thoroughly coated the buckets with assembly lube before installing them in the head. Also, the cams are not torqued down here. This reduces the risk of bending a valve while I was transporting it. Plus, the cams have to be out to torque it down to the block!
Wow that is a ton of pics! On to the next post...